Lemoyne Star blocks the tips I have learnt
February 13, 2021
5 Comments
Lemoyne Stars have always been a favorite of mine, although they take a little time I think it is time well spent.
I have gone through some of the pieces of scrap fabrics in my stash, finding some interesting combinations and started to make Lemoyne star blocks. At first just to play with the technique and then because I was having so much fun I kept making them until I had a pile. Now to decide what to make with all these gorgeous blocks.
Have you ever made these lovely stars? I always found them a little intimidating but with a few a steps that are tried and true I found them easy.
Here's how I went about making mine.
Tip #1 First is the cutting, it is important to take your time and make sure your cutting is accurate. Always include the lines on your ruler in the cut piece, So for instance if it is a 2 inch cut make sure the 2 inch line is included and not butted up against the edge of your fabric.
Tip #2 Layout all your pieces beside you at the sewing machine, in the order they are sewn to make the star.
Tip #3 A backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam is important when you press your seams open.
Tip #4 Use a fine piecing thread, top and bobbin. (my preference is a 60 weight polyester)
Tip #5 Press seams as you sew, I press my seams with a dry iron. Then when the block is finished I spritz the block with water and press the block to flatten the seams. Then leave the block under a tailors clapper until it is completely dry.
Tip #6 Don't fuss with sewing Y seams, its only sewing from one point to another.
Here is my block pieces laid out as I am about to sew them.
The first unit I sew together are the star blades and the side triangles. I sew all star blades for the block together, stopping a 1/4 inch before the end and doing one or two backstitches. Press the seams open with a dry iron. Then sew the triangle pieces on one side at a time, starting at the center and sewing to the outside of the block. Backstitching beginning and end in the same manner. Press the seams towards the star blades as you can see in the picture above using a dry iron.
In this picture I have sewn all the parts together for several blocks.
I then lay out the pieces in the order they are sewn and sew two units together for each side of the star. Stopping 1/4 inch from the outside edge and backstitching.
Press seams open with a dry iron.
A stack of Lemoyne star halves ready to sew together.
Piece together the center seam, leaving 1/4 inch at each end and backstitching. I start sewing 1/4 inch from one side of the center and sew to the 1/4 inch mark at the end of the seam, then go back to where I started stitching and sew in the other direction to 1/4 inch before the other end of the seam and backstitch. I think it helps keep the center aligned sewing the seam in this manner. Check the where the center of the seam aligns before sewing the second half, in case you need to adjust it.
Sew the outside squares to the block in the same manner as the triangles to finish the block. Press with a dry iron, then spritz the block with water (or I sometimes use flatter or Mary Ann's best press) and press again. I place a tailor clapper onto the block and leave it until the block is completely dry, this keeps my seams lovely and flat.
I need to sew more stars, but here is my layout so far, thinking about an applique center using this basket as my inspiration.
You can never have too many stars.....
Happy Stitching
Sharon
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5 Responses
Leave a comment
Leisa
February 16, 2022
There are many ways to make this star (and NOT the HST cheater method!). I think that experimenting and finding preferences is important. I have better luck joining all of my diamonds and then sewing the insets.
After a year long odyssey of trying several methods, I finally glommed together an approach that gives me perfect results every time. I slightly upsize my insets, clip the corner that snugs into the diamond (Marti Michelle’s Deluxe Corner Trimmer is MVP for marking and trimming) so that I have a perfect alignment. That tool also provides a great trim on the acute diamonds as well as perfectly marks the 135 degree angle on the diamond shoulder. Using upsized insets requires working from the inside of the corner out. I sew all diamonds together (press to one side on each and spin in the middle), then QST insets, then squares. There are so many seams in the block and bias, slightly upsizing the insets, ensures that no points are lost and the block finishes perfectly when trimmed.
I adopted Shar Jorgenson’s method of inserting the insets by sewing off the shoulders. It creates a perfect “X” seam at the “Y” seam…and it requires no further marking (of course the diamonds have to be marked for the lower join). You my need your stylus or tweezers to tuck the top diamond shoulder in the inset sandwhich out of the way. I love my eagle beak precision tweezers for this. SEwing off the shoulders also allows for chain piecing multiple units.
Sewing the corners in this way gives a perfect locking of your stitches for a strong, flat corner with no gaps. The two seams join exactly on the 1/4" point above the lower diamond join. It is a brilliant and effective method.
I now use Wonderfil 80WT for all of my piecing. This cottonized polyester gives me superior piecing results—same strength as 50wt cotton You might want to experiment with it.
Making these stars requires a trifecta of cutting/sewing/pressing accurately. I have also found pressing sheets invaluable to prevent shine on front.